I was excited to finally get to Hanmer Springs. They even had dedicated motorcycle parking in the back of the hotel. What a win! I was now realizing that 400 km in a day is no joke here on the South Island of New Zealand. You don’t get any of the high-speed super slab that easily racks up miles or a more lenient Highway Patrol that makes going for miles easier. Every one of those kilometers is enjoyable down here, but you are in each and every one of them in the form of aches and pains.

Hanmer Springs first got its start in the late 1880s. Today, the thermal pools still serve clientele near and far from hot springs. Hanmer Springs has a bit of soaking tubs, a waterpark, and a spa. I had been bouncing back and forth for a couple of days if I was going to take the planned route, which would have me in Christchurch in 90 minutes, or the long route, which would bring me further up the coast to Kaikōura. Kaikōura was a great ride up State Highway 70 and down the coast on Highway 1. Kaikōura is known as the place where the mountains meet the sea. Sounds like it’s right up my alley. However, thunderstorms were predicted for that area and if I’m frank, I’m done with the rain.

So, I unapologetically took the morning at Hanmer Springs rather than ride for miles on end. They had various pools with various devices at multiple temperatures catering to every bather’s wants and desires. For those who wanted an immersive hot experience, there were three tubs at 40, 41, and 42°C. There was another set of tubs in the mid to high 30s for soaking, as well as having water pour all over you at various quantities, and a few tubs with powerful jets for massage. Honestly, it felt great to be in one place for a while. I actually didn’t even get on the road until 1:30 in the afternoon! I felt a bit guilty texting my crew back home, knowing I might arrive late this evening.

As I left town, I stopped at one overpass with a beautiful view of Hanmer Springs and the surrounding valley. In that turnout, there was a bright lime green 1970s Australian Dodge Charger that seemed woefully out of place.

As I pulled in, I saw equally out-of-place cars flowing into Hanmer Springs. It turns out there was a car show this weekend with 900 entries of various four-wheel vehicles! How fun! However, my time in Hanmer Springs came to a close, and I headed south to explore some more local flavors in the Canterbury region of New Zealand.

I wasn’t ready to take the main highway back to Christchurch and call this day a wrap. I wanted to get further off the beaten path and see what was out there. Much like I wrote in Quaternary Roads with Pashnit, there’s value in getting off the main roads. Everything I’ve ridden has been top-notch, but I want to get a little further into the countryside. A couple of roads could be found zooming deep into Google Maps, connecting Highway 7 with Highway 1. 

I ran across Scargill Valley Road as it seemed to balance time and distance, was sealed, and wasn’t a major state highway.  I’d met the owner of 3 Monkeys Retreat earlier in the trip, and he was located right along Scargill Valley Road! We connected, and I decided to stop by to say hello! Scargill Valley Road was a great ride in and of itself. It snakes between two large mountain ranges with wide open views up and down the valley. It reminds me of home, without all of the development.

G was a class act. The 3 Monkeys Retreat is a nice off-the-grid collection of cabins about an hour outside of Christ Church and an hour from Hanmer Springs. I would’ve stayed there if I had been more flexible in my travel plans and hadn’t pre-booked lodging. After six days on the road, it was nice to slow down and spend the evening with someone local. I got to hear about the development of his land and the retreat’s ethos and share a bit more in the cultural understanding of all things New Zealand. G had traveled around the southeastern United States and spent time in some of the areas I have family – so it was fun to see my upbringing in the eyes of a New Zealander.

We shared dinner together; honestly, it was the best dinner I had since being here. Long days usually mean the hotel restaurant, which, let’s be honest, isn’t necessarily the pinnacle of fine dining. We had surf, turf, salad, and, of course, the national food of New Zealand: some form of fried potatoes. Yes, I knock the fried potatoes – but the New Zealanders really do them well.

3 o’clock quickly became 9 o’clock, and I could see the sun slowly slipping behind the horizon – it was time to get home. The rain had finally cleared out, but it was beginning to get cold. Firing up the motorcycle, the thermometer came back at 53° – the coldest I’ve been this trip. Mind you, this is summer. I have not been able to figure out the weather patterns here in the slightest. That’s like winter in northern California!

As I was heading down to Christchurch, the sun slipped behind the horizon, leaving the gentle glow of the day’s last light all around the mountains surrounding me. It was really a surreal feeling being in that space, at that time of night. Stars were beginning the pop out as I was winding through the countryside. Left-handed riding makes every new move a bit of an adventure – night riding included.

Much like riding in the rain, I took it slow and followed the car ahead of me using their headlights to see further into the distance. The problem is, it’s 930 on a Friday night, and there aren’t very many cars in the area. It’s that lack of population thing that is showing up again. There just aren’t vehicles in New Zealand that there are back home in California. It’s such an interesting paradox wanting a car to follow but not having many and, in some spaces, any to choose from.

Coming into town, I got to ride the one stretch of motorway that runs through the city. For a place that rigorously enforces speed limits, this crew of autos that were around me knew how to fly. I guess many wheels do make quick riding!

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